A land of Milk and Honey

4.17.2010

In a country where sacred emaciated cows roam busy streets like stray cats, I decided it would be appropriate to restrain from meat for awhile. Frankly, it doesn’t look like there’s enough meat on the bone for a good meal in most cases. It’s been a week, and I don’t have a strong desire for a burger, so I think I’ll keep up this veg cycle for awhile. My stomach has finally settled, it seems, but I’m still reticent to return to the indian breakfasts of spiced masala. I’m quite satisfied with my favorite indian breakfast, masala chai tea and buttered wheat toast with honey. It’s a comforting way to enter the uncertainty of each day.

The heat is bordering on unbearable. Yesterday, in Delhi, the temperature reached a 52-year high of over 110 degrees (43.7 fahrenheit). Being further south and closer to the Arabian sea, I’m taking in similar temps with more humidity. My new world smells of cardemom, sweat and petrol (gasoline) emissions...which is fortunate, because it means that my own scents are lost in the atmosphere.

India cracks me up, though. From what I can tell, there’s not much joking about sexual topics, but there’s ample laughs from bodily functions...I saw this ‘poop’ ad on tv this morning (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RwyLAo3DJGY) and had to share it.

After a few days in Goa, I rented a scooter for the day. I’m an idiot. I say that partially for the benefit of my Mom who will certainly remind me after she reads this. I rode 15km south from Candolim beach where I was staying to the main port town of Panjim, a bustling market city, perhaps something you might see during a crowded market chase scene of a Bond movie. There are no speed limits, stop signs or traffic lights in 99% of India, they drive on the left side of the road, and onward traffic passes in your lane within inches of your forward-moving vehicle. It is harrowing as a passenger in a taxi, a white-knuckled tourist realizes why this is the most religious country in the world. All scooter drivers invoke the name of their favorite deity - Jesus, Allah, Buddha, Shiva, G-d. I only exhaled when I arrived back at the hotel several hours after leaving.

In Panjim, I explored a small outdoor market, and briefly lost my scooter in a sea of other parked bikes. They all look alike and there’s no button to press to make it beep like I’ve grown accustomed to with my car. Fortunately, it had some characteristic scratches that I remembered.

While walking, I was approached by some young children asking for money. I offered a few candies to them and the women who quickly approached. At the same time, a very thin and quite senior swami walked by and I offered him a candy. He happily accepted, showed appreciation, and continued walking. I quickly joined him, asking if I could walk alongside in rudimentary sign language. I took a brief walk with the swami, walking through town. We exchanged positive energy, and few words besides that. It was a warm feeling that I was very happy to have experienced. I half expected that he would be walking somewhere existential like a holy temple...he was just catching the bus. Oh well, all omens can’t lead one directly:)

Back in Candolim in Goa, I made friends with a great couple, John Frank and his girlfriend Sandra, who live in Holland outside of Zandvoort, a town I had visited with my buddy Marc several years ago to see the Formula 1 racetrack outside of Amersterdam. We’ve enjoyed several meals together and have made tentative plans to connect soon. John’s invited me to join him in Turkey for a brief business trip in May, and the couple invited me to stay in Holland with them for a few days if it works into my schedule. Right now flights into Europe are grounded due to the Iceland volcano ash, so it’s anyone’s guess when that might be a possibility. It’s a real problem here, as 16,000 flights have been grounded...none going into central Europe in the foreseeable future.

Two days ago I flew into Cochin in the Indian state of Kerala, flying from Goa through Bangalore (a great airport). On arrival, I had little idea where I might stay. I went to the travel office at the airport, and asked for recommendations. While at the desk, and Indian fellow with a British accent asked where I was going. I told him that I was heading to Ft. Cochin, and he said that he was heading to the same area (about 30km from the airport).

Very quickly I established that my new pal Taru Goel lived in NY, about a block from my old NY apartment on Sullivan and Houston, where he worked in the private equity market. Taru had also been planning on going to Bangkok (but came to India because of the protests) and we were months apart in age. Another omen...I invited him to share the cab with me and offered to find a hotel with him. Midway into our drive we decided to abandon the shipping fort and try to coordinate a back-water overnight boat tour from Alopee, about 1 1/2 hours from where we were heading.

Between Taru and I, we were the ultimate urban boyscouts. We could make plans and negotiate rates in record time. We found a good 2-bedroom waterway boat with a captain, chef and mate for about $50 p/person for the night. Our meals were spectacular, and cooked according to our tastes. We talked through the afternoon and night while riding down the river about spirituality and relationships (he was just married to an American in the nearby country of Rajistan).

In our conversations about religion Taru mentioned a woman named Amma, considered the spiritual equivalent of the Pope to Hindus. Her hugs are considered to hold great emotional power. Apparently this mention was also an omen. The Divine Right retreat I had planned on visiting here turned out to be a prayer retreat rather than meditation and yoga, so I needed to find an alternative. I looked up Amma’s organization, and found that she would be returning to Kerala today from her worldwide tour. Tomorrow I will be driving to meet her at a 2 day program that she will be attending and meeting individuals. I’m told that I should expect 10-15,000 people at the program, but that I would likely have a better opportunity to hear her as a Western traveler. I hope to give Amma a hug...my Oma gave great hugs! Amma’s hugs are said to cause emotional release and many are known to cry - one person described her hug as knowing unconditional love and a feeling of pure selflessness. She is known as a living saint for her charitable work and spiritual importance (http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/south_asia/3136524.stm). I’ll be sure to let you know if I got a hug and whether it was memorable in the same way.

Taru and I woke around 7am to the bright sun rising out of the Alopee river. I jumped into the warm water from the side of the boat, the first from our boat in the water. The staff followed to the stairs with their small bars of soap to take their morning baths. I brought my shampoo and soap over. I cleaned off and washed my hair and then introduced the crew to the joy of shampoo. They washed their moustaches, very likely improving the smell of their entire day. Tomorrow will be a different story for them, I’m sure as the scents of india are again infused in their facial hair.

Breakfast was a nice continental feast with papadum (the crispy indian bread wafer) and toast. Our driver from the airport actually stayed on the boat with us and we were off for Ft. Cochin by 9am.

We toured the village and went to see the 500 year old synagogue on Jew Street on Shabbos morning. We had just missed services and the doors were closed. I was pointed in the direction of a woman manning a shop that said Shalom in the window. Through the window of her shop I could see her praying the daily tehilim (prayers) laying on her bed. I met Sarah Cohen, an 80 year-old Jewish woman, who said that the shul was being taken care of by she and only 2 other men in Ft. Cochin, the remains of a 500-year old Jewish community here. Here is more about the present state of the Jewish community in Jew Town (http://members.virtualtourist.com/m/p/m/16fe46/). Sarah said that the only thing that I might do for her is to send good chocolates from home. If I can find the address, I know that she would appreciate words of kind encouragement and a few treats from the US if anyone is so inclined.

I’m nested at Le Meridien hotel in Cochin - Taru has taken off for Delhi to close down the family’s apartment before leaving for New York. The food here is incredible, we had a great Indian buffet after spending a few hours at the Oberon mall observing what Indians find fashionable. I’m here writing for the morning after enjoying a great breakfast. This afternoon I’ll check out more of the city and prepare to travel tomorrow.

Still debating where I might go next. Perhaps to Thailand or somewhere a bit cooler. A lot will depend on world situations. My travels are increasingly being guided on their own, and I am enjoying living in the moment that these omens bring me to.

Mazel Tov to David and Lisa Frist, and the Barry family, on the birth of my new cousin Alexis yesterday. I am told she is doing well.

With love for my friends and family!

Jared